Northern Thailand

In the back half of our stay in Thailand we headed north to Chiang Mai and Pai. We had a lot of firsts in Northern Thailand. Ryan had his first experience on a sleeper train as we took an overnight ride from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. I had my first taste of Khao Soi, which became my favorite Thai dish. And we both rode motorbikes for the first time!

Chiang Mai is an incredibly charming city. The Old City, where we stayed, is one square mile surrounded by ancient walls and packed to the brim with temples. Its also incredibly walkable compared to the much larger Bangkok. Because the canal and square city walls were flanked by wide sidewalks it also made a great running loop (something that can be hard to come by in hectic Asian cities). Northern Thailand is also generally less expensive than the coast or Bangkok.

We spent the better part of our first day just wandering around the Old City. There are literally hundreds of temples in this small geographic area. We visited:

  • Wat Chedi Luang. Temple complex includes ruins of a chedi from the old city.
  • Wat Phan Tao. The teak temple. Smaller temple made from beautiful teak wood.
  • Phra Singh Temple. Biggest temple (I think) in Chiang Mai. Several buildings on the complex, including gold covered stupa with elephants.
  • Wat Srisuphan. The silver temple. A one of a kind temple that is made from silver. Apparently the area it is located (just south of the Old City) was known for silver smiths. Gorgeous outside, but the inside is off limit to women.

There are a couple small museums in the city center. We spent about an hour looking through the Chiang Mai Historical Center. The museum goes through the history of the region chronologically and was a nice way to get out of the afternoon heat.

One of the most quintessential things to do in Chiang Mai is to take a Thai cooking class. We took the full day course with the Asia Scenic Cooking School. We made Pad See Ew and Pad Thai, papaya salad and spicy chicken salad, fried bananas and mango sticky rice, ground red and green curry paste, and rolled and fried our own spring rolls. I’m probably forgetting something but we left the day completely stuffed and satisfied.


Chiang Mai was also our jumping off point for a full day excursion to Doi Inthanon National Park with a trip to an elephant park. When you book these tours usually you expect to be accompanied by a van full of other people, but we lucked into getting the tour all to ourselves this time! I think it is a perk of traveling in the low season is that that is more likely. We went on a nature walk in the national park with our guide Nop and and then spent the afternoon feeding and bathing a group of elephants. I have some mixed feelings about the exploitation of animals, but we went to a park where they explicitly don’t let guests ride the elephants and they seemed to have a lot of land to roam. In any case, it was absolutely incredible to get up close with the animals and play with them in the stream.

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The other thing I have to mention about Chiang Mai is the Sunday Night Market. Night markets in general have been one of our favorite things in Asia. The Sunday Night Market in Chiang Mai is one of the biggest night markets I’ve seen yet. It sprawls through the old city and there are so many items for sale. In addition to a lot of food there were clothes and lots of knick knacks and souvenirs for sale. It was quite an experience and I think not to be missed on a trip to Chiang Mai.

After 5 nights in Chiang Mai we ventured further north to the town of Pai. What to say about Pai. Its a really, really popular backpacker destination. That means the town and surrounding area is very touristy and there are a lot of hippies. The countryside is beautiful. Once you get a bit outside of town, everywhere you look you can see lush green rice fields and rolling hills.

Our first day in Pai we decided to hike to the Mae Yen waterfall. Out of the several waterfalls around Pai, this is the only one you have to hike to get to. The hike to the waterfall took about three hours and we had to wade across a river to get to the trailhead.

The trail follows a river upstream and criss crosses the stream throughout the whole hike. I bet we spent 50% of the time wading across the stream vs. walking on land. The last bit involved a pretty steep and slippery uphill climb but in the end, we made it!

The other amazing activity we did in Pai was learn to ride motorbikes. We rented scooters for the day from Vespai (the businesses in town are really great at making Pai puns) and paid a little extra to get a proper lesson. 30 minutes on the side road in front of our guesthouse and we were ready to go! There is a loop around Pai that hits up some of the super kitschy tourist attractions that line the highways around Pai. The loop takes only 45 minutes, so its a great place for beginners. We stopped at “Coffee in Love” (one of the uber kitschy roadside stops) and Pai Canyon before looping back around to the main town. We also biked up to a sunset overlook but only had an overcast view of the valley below.

In the end, I have really fond feelings about our short stay in Pai. Its probably less because of the town itself and more because of the motorbikes. There was also a really good burger place.

Grayson Highlands Family Camping

So… we’re just over 1 month away from our around the world departure date of May 3rd! Ryan and I are beginning to say our goodbyes to family & friends as we start packing up our life, finish up at work, get our shots and fulfill some Virginia/Richmond wishlist items. Most of my “must dos” before leaving Richmond, VA are eating at our favorite restaurants. But, this past weekend, I got to kill two birds with one stone by both visiting with my family AND hanging out in the Mt. Rogers area of Western Virginia and hiking in Grayson Highlands State Park with its adorable wild ponies.

It was wonderful to spend the weekend camping with family and great to be with Joe and Amber (brother & sister-in-law) who we don’t get to see often enough.

Key takeaways from the weekend:

  • On our way to Marion, VA, from Richmond, Ryan and I stopped for a quick hike on the Dragon’s Tooth Trail in Catawba. This day hike (its a 4.3 mile out and back) is beautiful, has a couple fun rocky parts, and is just off the highway. It’s close to McAfee’s knob and some other popular hikes in Western VA. The “dragon’s tooth” rock formation is pretty cool.

  • I cannot recommend visiting Grayson Highlands State Park enough. The landscape is unique and gorgeous. The ponies are adorable and worth the hype. There are a number of accessible trails, including the AT.
  • We car camped about an hour north at Hungry Mother State Park and had a great set up. Really nice camp ground. Way to go Virginia state parks! (www.dcr.virginia.gov/state-parks/)
  • Visit the Grayson Highlands General Store on your way out of the park. The owner is a DC metro area transplant who opened the store/gas station a little over a year ago and is building out an inn and backyard music venue. It looks amazing and they had ice cream that really hit the spot. (www.graysongeneralstore.com)


This weekend was also the first time I took out my brand new GoPro Hero 5 Black for a test run! I’m really excited about this purchase for our big trip and can’t wait to take photos and videos around the world.  Right now I am definitely still in practice mode and just learning the ropes of the camera and software. So, to commemorate the weekend, and get some pratice clipping and putting together a video, I made this super cheesey vid from the weekend.  Check it out:

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